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Loosening up and Seeing "Water" COLOR Everywhere

  

 


Instructor:  Kathy Durdin

         

 

Loosening up and Seeing "COLOR"  Everywhere

Do you find yourself picking up those small brushes too soon? Do you wish you could see more and different colors in your images? Do some colors scare you? Do you just want to spend time splashing watercolors around with a big brush? This is the class for you.

 

Beginner-Intermediate

Kathy Durdin, BBA College of William and Mary, 1977.

 

Kathy's art education included numerous art history courses in college, as well as basic design, one community college course in watercolor in the early 1980s and a number of workshops recently.

 

Signature Memberships include: Texas Watercolor Society, Georgia Watercolor Society, Watercolor Society of Alabama, Tallahassee Watercolor Society and Florida Suncoast Watercolor Society.

 

For more information visit Kathy's website at: www.kathydurdin.com

 

 

Wednesdays 1:00 - 3:00 pm

 

 
Wednesday, November 1, 8, 29
 
$30 members/$40 non-members



Wednesday, December 13 & 20
  

$20 members/$30 non-members


Price per month. 


Click on flyer to print or view.

 

 

Supplies list

 

 

Predraw an image on whatever watercolor paper you use, no bigger than a half sheet.   Arches or another paper that stands up to some abuse preferable.The image needs to have large shapes.  Blow up your reference image to 8 1/2'” x 11”.  If your image has a detail, blow up that detail.  Image should have a good composition, and lots of contrast if a face.  If the photo when you blow up has started to pixilate, that is a plus.  That is where I get a lot of my inspiration on colors.

 

If you want to preserve whites, make sure that you have applied your masking fluid in advance.

 

If you need an image, please let me know.

 

You may want to bring an extra piece of scrap paper to test color or strokes if you are going to be using brushes or colors you are unfamiliar with.
You can bring whatever watercolor paint you use.  The image you have and what you want to do will in part dictate your colors. I typically use Daniel Smith and Holbein paint, but you can bring whatever you use.  Colors should include a warm and cool of each primary.  Make sure that you have some intense colors like Carbazole Violet, Phthalos, Indanthrone Blue, Carmine or Allizarn Crimson, etc. Also, I use the Quinacridones extensively and Opera is a must.   Also bring some colors that you don’t normally use, or which would go well with your planned palette.  Also include White Casein or Gouache. Note that I do not use cadmiums and try to stay with transparent, not opaque paints

 

 

Yellows

 

Cool

  •   Hansa Yellow light or medium
  •   Aureolin

Warm

 

  • New Gamboge
  • Hansa yellow deep

 

·        

 

 

Reds

 

Cool

  •   Permanent Rose

Warm

 

  • Scarlet lake

 

 

Blues

 

Cool

  •   Ultramarine

Warm

 

  • Cerulean or Manganese

Neutral

 

  •   Cobalt

 

        Others you might want to consider.  Don’t worry if you don’t have them – you can try mine to see if you like them.

  • Anthraquinoid Red
  • Carbazole Violet 
  • Quinacridone Gold (DS)

  • Quinacridone burnt orange (DS)

  • Quinacridone brunt scarlet (DS)

  • Quinacridone coral (DS)

  • Yellow ochre (Holbein)

  • Raw sienna

  • Raw umber (I have both DS and Holbein – they are very different colors)

  • Quinacridone Red (DS)

  • Opera (holbein) – this is the one color that is critical.  I mix it with everything.

  • Alizarin Crimson

  • Quinacridone Fuschia (DS)

  • Mineral Violet (Holbein)

  • Cobalt Blue violet (DS)

  • Moonglow (DS)

  • Shadow violet (DS)

  • Indanthrone Blue (DS)

  • Indigo (DS)

  • Phthalo Blue

  • Cobalt turquoise

  • Phthalo turquoise

  • Burnt Umber

  • Burnt Sienna

 

Greens are hard.  We will be mixing most of ours.  Here are some you might want to use.

  • Bamboo green (Holbein)
  • Shadow Green (Holbein)
  • Undersea green (DS)
  • Sap green
  • Hookers green
  • Phthalo green
  • Viridian

 

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